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Publication
Saccorhiza polyschides: A source of natural active ingredients for greener skincare formulations
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Advisor(s)
Abstract(s)
The growing knowledge about the harmful effects caused by some synthetic ingredients present in skincare products has led to an extensive search for natural bioactives. Thus, this study aimed to investigate the dermatological potential of five fractions (F1–F5), obtained by a sequential extraction procedure, from the brown seaweed Saccorhiza polyschides. The antioxidant (DPPH, FRAP, ORAC and TPC), anti-enzymatic (collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase and tyrosinase), antimicrobial (Staphylococcus epidermidis, Cutibacterium acnes and Malassezia furfur), anti-inflammatory (nitric oxide, tumor necrosis factor-α, interleukin-6 and interleukin-10) and photoprotective (reactive oxygen species) properties of all fractions were evaluated. The ethyl acetate fraction (F3) displayed the highest antioxidant and photoprotective capacity, reducing ROS levels in UVA/B-exposed 3T3 fibroblasts, and the highest anti-enzymatic capacity against tyrosinase (IC50 value: 89.1 µg/mL). The solid water-insoluble fraction (F5) revealed the greatest antimicrobial activity against C. acnes growth (IC50 value: 12.4 µg/mL). Furthermore, all fractions demonstrated anti-inflammatory potential, reducing TNF-α and IL-6 levels in RAW 264.7 macrophages induced with lipopolysaccharides. Chemical analysis of the S. polyschides fractions by NMR revealed the presence of different classes of compounds, including lipids, polyphenols and sugars. The results highlight the potential of S. polyschides to be incorporated into new nature-based skincare products.
Description
This work was funded by the Portuguese Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT) through the strategic projects granted to the MARE—Marine and Environmental Sciences Centre (UIDP/04292/2020; UIDB/04292/2020), BioISI—BioSystems and Integrative Sciences Institute (UIDP/Multi/04046/2020; UIDB/04046/2020), and Associate Laboratory ARNET (LA/P/0069/2020). FCT also supported this study through the CROSS-ATLANTIC project (PTDC/BIA-OUT/29250/2017), co-financed by COMPETE (PO-CI-01-0145-FEDER-029250). This work was also supported by the FCT and CAPES cooperation agreement through project MArTics (FCT/DRI/CAPES 2019.00277.CBM). It was also funded by the National NMR Network (PTNMR), partially supported by Infrastructure Project Nº 022161 (co-financed by FEDER through COMPETE 2020, POCI and PORL and FCT through PIDDAC.
Keywords
Bioactive compounds Brown macroalgae Dermatological potential Oxidative stress Anti-inflammatory activity
Pedagogical Context
Citation
Susano, P.; Silva, J.; Alves, C.; Martins, A.; Pinteus, S.; Gaspar, H.; Goettert, M.I.; Pedrosa, R. Saccorhiza polyschides—A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations. Molecules 2022, 27, 6496. https:// doi.org/10.3390/molecules27196496
Publisher
MDPI