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Desenvolvimento de uma emulsão cosmética com potencial de antienvelhecimento por incorporação de extrato de Beta vulgaris e polissacarídeos de origem marinha
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Abstract(s)
Ultimamente, o setor da beleza tem ganho um lugar de importância relevante na vida do ser humano. Mas, apesar disso, a consciência do processo de envelhecimento e as suas principais causas e consequências, acoplado a uma necessidade e sensibilidade dos impactos de compostos sintéticos no ambiente e na pele, mostrou ser uma prioridade no setor da cosmética, tanto pelos consumidores, como pelas grandes indústrias. Neste sentido, procura- se uma eficaz extração de compostos com propriedades antioxidantes que levem à neutralização ou eliminação das ROS (espécies reativas de oxigénio) e à diminuição do stress oxidativo, levando ao retardamento nos sinais de envelhecimento cutâneo. Neste estudo, realizaram-se diversas extrações de Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla (acelga) com recurso a diferentes solventes (E- etanólico, E50- hidroetanólico, A- aquoso) e a diferentes partes da planta (folhas, caules, raízes), em 1%, 5% e 10% de biomassa. Os resultados variaram, destacando-se o extrato E50 que apresentou o rendimento de extração mais elevado. De seguida, foi traçado o espectro UV-Vis correspondente a cada tipo de solvente de extração de B. vulgaris. Nestes ensaios, observou-se a presença de possíveis compostos antioxidantes, determinado por dois métodos diferentes, o FRAP (Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power) ou Poder Antioxidante de Redução de Ferro e o QTP (Quantificação do Conteúdo Fenólico Total). A extração E das folhas apresentou maior teor de compostos fenólicos, com 0,469 μg EQ. Ácido Gálico/μg extrato. No ensaio de determinação do potencial antioxidante por FRAP, os valores foram de 399,517 ± 32,678 μg EQ. Ácido Ascórbico (AA)/μg extrato, para a extração E das folhas. Quanto aos ensaios antimicrobianos, não se registou atividade contra Escherichia coli e Micrococcus luteus. Verificou-se que em ambos os microrganismos só se observou formação de halos de inibição no controlo positivo. Nos ensaios onde se avaliou a textura e cor da emulsão de creme, observou-se que os resultados não foram afetados diretamente pela introdução do alginato, podendo significar que as ligeiras alterações observadas em determinados extratos podem não ter sido diretamente relacionadas com a sua adição. Esta observação é positiva quando se trata da cor da emulsão, no sentido em que a esta não é necessariamente alterada, no caso da textura, observou-se na maioria dos extratos uma diminuição na força de coesão, o que é um bom indicador por tornar a emulsão com uma textura mais agradável e suave. Em escala industrial, o solvente E50 seria ideal para se obter um maior rendimento de extrato, enquanto o E será mais vantajoso para obter uma maior atividade antioxidante. Atualmente, ainda existe uma discrepância no que toca à literatura da beterraba e da acelga, sendo a da primeira, ainda a mais valorizada. Em todo o caso, surgiu recentemente um interesse crescente pelas muitas potencialidades da acelga, tornam-na uma peça importante para avançarmos e irmos de encontro a uma economia circular e de otimização na utilização dos recursos e dos seus benefícios, priorizando a sustentabilidade e a utilização de produtos naturais.
Lately, the beauty sector has gained significant importance in human life. Despite this, awareness of the aging process and its main causes and consequences, coupled with a sensitivity to the impacts of synthetic compounds on the environment and the skin, has become a priority in the cosmetics sector for both consumers and major industries. In this regard, there is a search for effective extraction of compounds with antioxidant properties that lead to the neutralization or elimination of ROS (reactive oxygen species) and a reduction in oxidative stress, thereby delaying the signs of skin aging. In this study, various extractions of Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla (chard) were carried out using different solvents (E - ethanolic, E50 - hydroethanolic, A - aqueous) and different parts of the plant (leaves, stems, roots), at 1%, 5%, and 10% biomass. The results varied, with the E50 extract showing the highest extraction yield. Subsequently, the UV-Vis spectrum corresponding to each type of extraction solvent of B. vulgaris was traced. In these tests, the presence of possible antioxidant compounds was observed, determined by two different methods, FRAP (Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power) and TPC (Total Phenolic Content). The ethanolic extraction of the leaves showed the highest phenolic content, with 0.469 μg GAE (Gallic Acid Equivalent)/μg extract. In the determination assay of antioxidant potential by FRAP, the values were 399.517 ± 32.678 μg AAE (Ascorbic Acid Equivalent)/μg extract for the ethanolic extraction of the leaves. Regarding the antimicrobial assays, no activity was recorded against Escherichia coli and Micrococcus luteus. It was found that in both microorganisms, inhibition halos were only observed in the positive control. In the tests where the texture and color of the cream emulsion were evaluated, it was observed that the results were not directly affected by the introduction of alginate, which may indicate that the slight changes observed in certain extracts may not have been directly related to its addition. This observation is positive regarding the color of the emulsion, in the sense that it is not necessarily altered, while for the texture, a decrease in the cohesion force was observed in most extracts, which is a good indicator as it makes the emulsion have a more pleasant and smooth texture. On an industrial scale, the E50 solvent would be ideal for obtaining a higher extract yield, while the ethanolic solvent would be more advantageous for obtaining higher antioxidant activity. Currently, there is still a discrepancy in the literature regarding beet and chard, with the former still being more valued. Nonetheless, there has recently been a growing interest in the many potentialities of chard, making it an important piece for advancing towards a circular economy and optimizing the use of resources and their benefits, prioritizing sustainability and the use of natural products.
Lately, the beauty sector has gained significant importance in human life. Despite this, awareness of the aging process and its main causes and consequences, coupled with a sensitivity to the impacts of synthetic compounds on the environment and the skin, has become a priority in the cosmetics sector for both consumers and major industries. In this regard, there is a search for effective extraction of compounds with antioxidant properties that lead to the neutralization or elimination of ROS (reactive oxygen species) and a reduction in oxidative stress, thereby delaying the signs of skin aging. In this study, various extractions of Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla (chard) were carried out using different solvents (E - ethanolic, E50 - hydroethanolic, A - aqueous) and different parts of the plant (leaves, stems, roots), at 1%, 5%, and 10% biomass. The results varied, with the E50 extract showing the highest extraction yield. Subsequently, the UV-Vis spectrum corresponding to each type of extraction solvent of B. vulgaris was traced. In these tests, the presence of possible antioxidant compounds was observed, determined by two different methods, FRAP (Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power) and TPC (Total Phenolic Content). The ethanolic extraction of the leaves showed the highest phenolic content, with 0.469 μg GAE (Gallic Acid Equivalent)/μg extract. In the determination assay of antioxidant potential by FRAP, the values were 399.517 ± 32.678 μg AAE (Ascorbic Acid Equivalent)/μg extract for the ethanolic extraction of the leaves. Regarding the antimicrobial assays, no activity was recorded against Escherichia coli and Micrococcus luteus. It was found that in both microorganisms, inhibition halos were only observed in the positive control. In the tests where the texture and color of the cream emulsion were evaluated, it was observed that the results were not directly affected by the introduction of alginate, which may indicate that the slight changes observed in certain extracts may not have been directly related to its addition. This observation is positive regarding the color of the emulsion, in the sense that it is not necessarily altered, while for the texture, a decrease in the cohesion force was observed in most extracts, which is a good indicator as it makes the emulsion have a more pleasant and smooth texture. On an industrial scale, the E50 solvent would be ideal for obtaining a higher extract yield, while the ethanolic solvent would be more advantageous for obtaining higher antioxidant activity. Currently, there is still a discrepancy in the literature regarding beet and chard, with the former still being more valued. Nonetheless, there has recently been a growing interest in the many potentialities of chard, making it an important piece for advancing towards a circular economy and optimizing the use of resources and their benefits, prioritizing sustainability and the use of natural products.
Description
Keywords
Beta vulgaris Antioxidantes Betacianinas Solvente de extração