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  • Evaluation of anti-aging cosmetic properties in marine sponge extracts
    Publication . Alves, Luan Lucena; Afonso , Clélia Paulete Correia Neves; Mandalakis , Manolis
    Marine resources have various biological activities and, despite the rich biodiversity of invertebrates in the Mediterranean Sea, these organisms remain underexplored. In this study, the cosmetic-related properties of 13 species of marine sponges were investigated. The main objective was to identify sponge extracts with inhibitory effects on enzymes associated with skin aging, as well as to assess their antioxidant potential, for possible use as ingredients in cosmeceutical formulations. Sequential solvent fractionation was performed to obtain five fractions of increasing polarity from each sponge species. The solvents applied for fractionation included hexane (Hex), dichloromethane (DCM), ethyl acetate (EtAc), methanol (MeOH), and water (H2O). The fractions were evaporated to dryness, and the residues were resuspended in solvents of corresponding polarity to prepare working solutions of defined concentration. These solutions were subsequently evaluated for anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, anti-tyrosinase, and antioxidant activities using colorimetric assays. Among the samples tested, Ircinia oros extracts showed the strongest inhibitory effects against collagenase enzyme, with an IC50 of 28.6 ± 2.1 µg/mL [95% CI: 9.4 – 47.8 µg/mL] determined in the EtAc fraction. Sarcotragus foetidus demonstrated potent anti-elastase activity, achieving IC50 values of 2.4 ± 0.8 µg/mL [95% CI: 0.14 – 4.5 µg/mL] and 3.8 ± 2.7 µg/mL [95% CI: -2.9 – 10.5 µg/mL] in the EtAc and DCM fractions, respectively. Moreover, moderate anti-tyrosinase effects were observed by the EtAc fraction of Agelas oroides, with an IC50 of 67.23 ± 8.1 µg/mL [95% CI: 46.9 – 87.5 µg/mL], Axinella damicornis, with an IC50 of 80.59 ± 22.0 µg/mL [95% CI: 25.7 – 135.4 µg/mL], and Axinella verrucosa, with an IC50 of 64.03 ± 11.6 µg/mL [95% CI: 34.9 – 93.0 µg/mL]. The antioxidant capacity of the samples was also evaluated using the DPPH radical scavenging assay. The aqueous fraction of Ircinia oros was found to exert the strongest antioxidant effect, achieving 68% inhibition of DPPH radicals at 500 µg/mL, followed by the Hex fraction of Sarcotragus foetidus (66% inhibition). Notably, the EtAc fraction exhibited the most significant responses, suggesting that it may be effective for extracting metabolites of relevant biological interest. This study represents one of the most comprehensive investigations of its kind, as it assessed the antioxidant capacity and the inhibitory activities against three skin-aging enzymes across a wide range of sponge species and multiple solvent fractions, highlighting the species with the greatest biotechnological potential of bioactive compounds for cosmetic applications.
    2025-12-18Dissertação de mestrado Acesso embargado Ver mais